Autumn in the South

We cruised down the Intra Coastal Waterway (ICW) south to warmer weather.  After having a quiet dinner at the very unique Tavern at Jack’s Neck in Belhaven, NC https://www.tavernatjacks.com/photos, we pressed on into the mighty Neuse River and found a quiet anchorage in Big Creek off the South River.  From there we sailed south to Beaufort, NC where we provisioned Fantasea for her next leg.  Leaving before dawn, we carefully made our way out into the Atlantic Ocean for the long cruise to the Masonboro Inlet, when we arrived just as night was settling in.  We found the anchorage at Wrightsville Beach, NC where we had met other cruising friends, Rich and Kathie from Kansas. 

The weather was about to turn nasty so we cruised down to Carolina Beach and tied up at the Federal Point Yacht Club marina where we weathered the next Nor’easter.  When the next day dawned, there were parts of the floating docks that had separated and a small tug was attempting to tow it away when the steering mechanism failed and the tug grazed the starboard side of our boat and scraped the galvanized finish off our anchor.  The marina staff offered to pay for the detailing that would be needed to restore Fantasea’s hull to its bristol condition.  By all means we responded especially since we did not have to pay for another day’s dockage and, lo, the detailing team felt that it would be cheeky not to polish the starboard side alone so the port side was done as well.  Now, Fantasea virtually glides through the water with her polished hull glistening. 

On to Southport where Captain Billy met us to help out with our plumbing system concerns.  We had dinner at a cozy waterfront bistro with Billy and his wife, Donna.  We left early the next day with a favorable current and spent the day cruising the ICW to a cool little anchorage a few miles south of Georgetown, NC just off Winyah Bay.  Sometimes these anchorages are so isolated that, if your mind is left to wander, no one would know if you had been kidnapped or worse. 

Back out to the Atlantic Ocean to sail south to Little River Inlet which is just north of Myrtle Beach, SC.  It was another long day of cruising which featured a 3 mile stretch of narrow channel known as “the Rock Pile”.  We passed this daunting stretch and made our way down the ICW to Charleston, SC, a city that exudes a unique blend of historic charm and richness. 

This was the port from which we departed for a 4 hour drive to Atlanta to spend Thanksgiving with daughter, Jessica, son in law Phil, and Finn 5 ½ and Wyatt 2, our two adorable and remarkably talented grandsons. 

Our friends, Mark and Shirley, prodigious producers of progeny (like 10 children!) elected to join us to cruise from Charleston to points south.  So off we went out into the Atlantic Ocean again, eschewing the ICW for the untamed waters of the great ocean.  What concerned me was that our cruising guide listed inlets from the ocean to the ICW and contained enough warnings to scare even the most dauntless skipper.  And the one we were heading to along the South Edisto River was even listed!  A call to the local Towboat US captain and the marina where we would eventually dock that night convinced us to plunge ahead and take the inlet.  I’m so glad we did even though there were moments when I struggled to remain calm though my heart was racing.  For example, you see on your GPS that if you continue on the current course, you will run aground but the local and reliable guidance and the channel markers tell you otherwise.  Well, we made it to the marina without incident or insurance claim, tied up at the dock, and went for a walk to capture a beautiful sunset at Edisto Beach, South Carolina. 

Dawn at Edisto Beach was quite foggy and I was not sure it would be safe to proceed.  Indeed, as we left the dock and slowly made our way into the South Edisto River, we strained to see the channel markers that would guide us.  What a relief when we finally spotted the markers and turned up the river where, after 30 minutes, the fog left and we were more confidently on our way south.  Our goal was the Skull Creek Marina on Hilton Head Island, SC via the ICW that would eventually take us past Beaufort, SC and across Port Royal Sound to Skull Creek.  The wind and rain persuaded us to take refuge at the marina and we spent a bit of a rocky night at the fuel dock.  Our intrepid friends, Mark and Shirley, vintners of some repute and so kind to bring us a number of bottles from their personal brand, departed for home in the morning. 

Cindy and I motored down the west side of Hilton Head Island in high winds for an hour before turning into Broad Creek and its calm waters.  Our destination was Shelter Cove Marina on Hilton Head Island where we would rendezvous with Randy and Sherry whose yacht Lexus Cat Too was berthed.  As always when one is unfamiliar to the approach to the marina, I thought we might need some lubricant to squeeze past the encroaching docks on either side.  And then, once we were inside the marina, how am I to maneuver this 46’ single engine vessel with no bow thrusters into a slip without damaging Fantasea or other boats?  I must credit Cindy and the dock crew with highly developed skill to bring us to rest in the slip without incident.

The change in the water was nothing short of remarkable.  Just a few hours before, we were shivering on the Calibogue Sound and now we were nestled in a secure anchorage with calm waters.  We would spend the next 2 days in Shelter Cove Marina to visit with Randy and Sherry aboard their beautifully decorated yacht.  Here is a link to this beautiful harbor: https://www.sheltercovehiltonhead.com/marina-web-cams

We extended our stay at Shelter Cove to rendezvous with HHI residents, Van and Lauren of the S/V Gratitude who we had met in Sunbury Creek, Georgia six months ago.  We were the most grateful beneficiaries of their hospitality as they took us to their home so we could thaw out, tour the Island, attend the performance of Kiss Me Kate, andenjoy their savory home cooked meals.  We had planned to leave earlier but Cindy was down with a bad cold so the extra days of rest were welcomed.